^After my solo trip across South Africa at the beginning of 2023, the allure of further exploration in this part of the world was irresistible. And when my partner, Marcela, decided to fly down and meet me in Namibia, everything seemed to fall into place. We knew very little about the country, but we were optimistic and open to the surprises of an adventure. We bought a plane ticket and packed our bags.

Namibia is a country of vast contrasts and captivating landscapes. Located in southwestern Africa, it is bordered by Angola and Zambia to the north, Botswana to the east, and South Africa to the south. With a population of just over two million people spread across its expansive terrain, it is one of the least densely populated countries in the world. The nation gained its independence from South Africa in 1990, but not before enduring a period of German colonization from 1884 to 1915, which has left a lasting impact on its architecture, culture, and even language. Today, a blend of multiple ethnic groups including the Ovambo, Herero, and Damara, among others, make up its demographic mosaic, while English serves as the official language.

As we approached Windhoek - the capital city - by air, the sheer vastness of the landscape below foreshadowed what we would soon experience about the remoteness of this land. Miles of unbroken desert and undulating hills unfurled beneath us, making the sudden emergence of the small city on the horizon a stark contrast.

In our research, we concluded that driving was the only feasible way to explore the country and that most of our journey would be off-road. Excited by the prospect of an off-grid adventure, we began to seek out options to rent well-equipped 4x4 truck. We contacted several rental companies and eventually connected with Kalahari Car Hire. Their team impressed us from the get-go. (Despite eventually joining them in a commercial collaboration, we genuinely believe they offer the best trucks and gear in Namibia.) Kalahari provided us with a 2023 Ford Ranger 4x4, complete with a roof tent and ample adventure gear—exactly what we were looking for.

We packed up the truck and headed south to escape the heat of Windhoek. Traversing the long gravel highways, we quickly crossed the Tropic of Capricorn and found our first campsite, nestled amid a desert forest of Quiver trees.

In the days that followed, we journeyed west through sprawling, martian-like valleys toward the coastline.

Arriving in Lüderitz, an old German settlement, we were met by gale-force winds and sand whipping through streets lined with colorful, yet dated old houses. The sounds of the nearby bay echoed through the town, and we followed their howl to a nearby beach at sunset. Here, the breathtaking scene was amplified when we looked around and found nobody in sight. It began to show clear that this was part of this country's magic: the solitude.

We were able to get special permission to enter the nearby ghost town of Kolmanskop the next morning for sunrise. Kolmanskop was once a thriving diamond mining town in the early 1900s, abandoned when richer diamond deposits were found elsewhere. Today, it stands as a haunting testament to the ebbs and flows of fortune. Walking through this deserted town, complete with an empty hospital, casino, and houses, was one of the highlights of the whole trip.

Following the coast, we took a detour inland to one of Namibia's most iconic landscapes—Sossusvlei. This was a place I'd dreamed of photographing: a stark pan surrounded by some of the tallest sand dunes in the world. Adding a haunting dimension to this sea of red sand are the petrified camel thorn trees. These ancient trees, scorched black by the sun and preserved by the arid climate, are visual and geological marvels. Over centuries, the trees have undergone a natural process of petrification, where mineral-laden water has replaced the organic cells, leaving behind an eerie yet captivating forest of stone-like trees.

We woke up before dawn to capture the sunrise here, which illuminated the red sands and cast long, contrasting shadows across this incredible tableau. 

After soaking in the morning light and hues at Sossusvlei, we continued north through the heart of the country, making a pitstop at another coastal city: Walvis Bay. Here, we embarked on a dream drive to Sandwich Harbour, a location we had in our minds since first hearing about Namibia.

The journey to Sandwich Harbour proved more challenging than we had anticipated, and involved obtaining a special permit, then making a precarious 60km 4x4 drive along the beach. The sand tracks' varying consistencies and closeness to the water made driving—despite our truck's severely deflated tires—an adventure in itself. At times, the path narrowed to less than a meter on each side of our vehicle, leaving us sandwiched between towering sand dunes on one side and the incoming ocean waves on the other.

To photograph this iconic stretch of coastline at sunset, we had to navigate the 60km stretch during a rising tide. This required impeccable timing: arrive at the bay 30 minutes before sunset, take our shots, and then head back just as the sun dipped below the ocean horizon. Local residents warned us that any delay or driving error would lead to us becoming stranded overnight (with no cell-service) as the tide rose around our vehicle—a tough end to an otherwise incredible journey.

Fortunately, aside from a few tense moments and a rigid schedule, we managed to capture an unforgettable sunset and returned unscathed.

At one point, while photographing Marcela on a distant dune, a movement caught my eye. I was startled, wondering who else could be out there with us. Lifting my gaze slowing from my camera's viewfinder, I locked eyes with a light-colored jackal ( desert fox) standing nearby. After a brief, shared moment of curiosity, it turned and resumed its search.

Leaving the coastline behind, we ventured into the mountains, setting up camp in the hills of Damaraland. Here, we encountered a group of San people, an indigenous community originating in this area. A few children offered to show us around their local territory, and an elder who spoke some English guided us through ancient rock paintings—records of the community and signs for nomadic hunters about nearby predators. The experience was fascinating.

Our journey concluded with a three-day traverse of Etosha National Park in the north. Unlike many African safari parks, Etosha allows for self-driving, letting Marcela and I explore at our own pace and in our own car. Despite our visit coinciding with the wet season (when thick vegetation makes animal spotting more challenging) we saw all the game we had hoped for.

We left Namibia with both feelings of amazement and a hunger to return. Fourteen days were enough to cross the country by 4x4, but insufficient to fully absorb all the country has to offer. There's a unique magic this place—a sense of serenity that whispers through its stark landscapes and resonates in the spirit of its people. From wild desert campsites to the melody of the wind through our tent and its dark skies' blanket of stars, Namibia renewed my appreciation for the world's remaining solitude.